Chart for drafting garments



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J. S. & M. E. BAUGHMAN. CHART FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

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CHART FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS. N0. 430,059i Patented June 10, 1890.

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J. S. 86 M. E. BAUGHMAN. CHART FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS. No. 430,059. Patented June 10, 1890.

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JACOB S. BAUGHMAN AND MELVINA E. BAUGHMAN, OF BURLINGTON, IOWA.

CHART FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

} SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 430,059, dated June 10, 1890. Application filed January 23, 1890. Serial No. 337,817. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, J ACOB S. BAUGHMAN and HELVINA E. BAUGHMAN, citizens of the United States of America, residing at Burlington, in the county of Des Moines and State of Iowa, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Dress-Charts; and we do hereby declare the following to be afull, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to letters and figures of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

Our invention relates to charts adapted to serve as patterns for cutting out garments; and it consists in the improvements hereinafter described and set forth.

In the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, Figure 1 represents a diagram view of a chart for drafting the front section of a garment. Fig. 2 is a like view of the chart for drafting the back section of the garment. Fig. 3 is a similar view for drafting the under-arm section of the garment. Fig. 4 is a like view of the chart for drafting the center back section of the gar-- ment; Fig. 5, a like view of the chart for drafting the collar and dart section of the garment, and Fig. 6 a like View of the chart for drafting the sections necessary to form the sleeves of the garment.

The front chart Fig. 1 consists of an upper section H and lower section I, respectively shaped as shown, and each pivotally connected together at the front by means of an eyelet h, while a metal clip 41 in the section I engages a vertical slot in the section II, so that the rear upper portion of said section I may have an adjustable movement relative to the section H. The sections H and I have a scale in inches at their front edge to provide for the front measure, and are coincidently cut away at their rear to furnish the armseye portion. The upper front portion of the section H is cut away to provide for the neck portion. A vertical series A of punctures extend along the neck portion parallel with the front edge thereof, and are accompanied by a series of numerals 22 24., and so on up to 46, inclusive. A double row B of punctures extend vertically and slightly oblique downward from the top edge of the section H to a point adjacent to the series A, and are accompanied by numerals extending consecutively from 22 up to 47, inclusive. A series C of punctures are located at the rear of the section H, and gradually decrease in the number of punctures in each row toward the bottom of the series. Along the inner vertical side of i this series 0 of punctures is a series of numerals ranging upward from 22 to 48, inclusive, while along the top row of punctures are arranged the figures 4% to 6%, inclusive, With intermediate half-divisions. On the section H, adjacent to the hinged section I, are arranged a transverse series D of punctures extending from about the center of the section H to the rear edge of the same, a portion of the series of punctures curving upward, as shown. These said punctures are also accompanied by numerals ranging from 22 24, and so on to 46, inclusive.

A horizontal series E of punctures is formed in the section I, and is accompanied by numbers corresponding with those of the series D. Intersecting the waist-line at the lower portion of the chart, and adjacent to the rear edge thereof, is formed a rectangular series of punctures J, along the top row of which are arranged numerals ranging 20 22 up to 36, inclusive, while down the vertical inner side are arranged numerals ranging 5 5% down to 10, with intermediate divisions of one-half.

Provision is made for the several styles of dart-s, by means of the series of vertical straight and curved lines j, adjacent to the top of which are formed two distinct serles of punctures accompanied by numerals to secure the desired height of dart.

In order that the use and operation of the chart may be thoroughly understood, an outline-measure is drafted on the front chart, and also on the other charts to correspond therewith. For the purpose of simplifying the operation of the charts the said outline will be adopted as the basis of the supposed measure and pattern to be drafted. The

bust-measure having first been ascertainedsay thirty-four inches-the section H is moved until the puncture 34 in series D is uncovered. The chart'being upon the fabric, the latter is scored with the crayon through said puncture. The shoulder-measure being, say, five inches, the puncture in series 0, in vertical line with 5 at the top and 34C at the side, is utilized for the next score on the fabric, and then 34 on the inner row of series B and 34: in series A. Assuming that the under-arm measure is nine inches and the waist twentytwo, a check would next be made in the 22 row opposite 9 of series J. The front measure is then ascertained and the front scale 1011 the chart so adjusted that the numeral therein representing said front measure caused to register with the crayon-check on the cloth made previously through the puncture in series A, and the front line made along the front edge of the chart The chart can then be shifted so that the upper front curved portion can then be used for lining in at the neck-checks, the upper edge for lining in from series B to series 0, the curved arms-eye edge for lining in from check of series 0 to that at series E, and the balance of the back edge used for lining in from series E through J and for shaping the skirt below the waistline. This latter is then employed for lining in from the check in series J to the dash made for the waist-point of the front measure, the dart-lines and punctures of course being correspondingly positioned. The chart, together with its front measure and dart-lines, extends below the waist-lines according to the desired length of skirt. In lining in the top the chart is adjusted so that either of the points repre' sented by H, M, or F register with the front check, according whether it be desired to make the shoulder hollow, medium, or full. To secure a low back for a pattern corresponding to the measurements referred to, the outlining is done as represented by the upper dotted line P. A second dotted line, extending from the check of series E through puncture 9 in row 32 of series J, indicates how the checks should be made in order to secure the under-arm seam for the so-called French dart.

The dotted lines in Figs. 2, 3, and 4 indicate how the outlining is correspondingly pursued in reference to the charts represented therein, thirty-four inches being the basemeasure for all calculations, as in the preceding chart.

Fig. 5 discloses a chart adapted to be used as the hip-piece in drafting for the French dart, and also carries at its upper portion a scale, opposite to which are punctures ranging from 7 to 16, inclusive, from which the collar may be made.

The chart for the sleeve is represented in Fig. 6, and consists of a single section having the general configuration shown and provided with the upper scale of punctures K,a single scale or row of punctures L at the elbow, and

a scale of punctures M at the wrist portion.

' Each of said scales has a double series of verner edge of the chart has outwardly-ranging scales for drafting the length of the sleeve for inside seam, and on the chart and parallel with the inside edge is a line A, which merges into one of the horizontal rows of punctures of the wrist-scale M, corresponding in number with the divisions of the adjacent inside edge scale, while the other portion of said line A has a scale of punctures corresponding with the adjacent inside edge scale. The shoulder portion is suitably curved, and is also provided with a scale for positioning the shoulder portion in lining in the upper part of sleeve at shoulder. A star indicates how the adjustment of the shoulder portion can be made in lining in for under part. Practice draft-lines are also delineated on the sleeve-chart. The several vertical series of numerals respectively provide for the under and upper measures at the points where they are located.

The chart for the hip-section shown in Fig. 5 not only has provision for the collar-scale, but its front edge is divided and adapted to serve as a dart-rule, and the rear edge will serve as a rule for lining in the hip-seam in French dart.

WVe claim 1. In a chart for outlining garment-sections, the combination, with the section II, of section I, permanently pivoted to the front of the section H, said sections H I being cut away to form an arms-eye portion and having their adjacent edges in a plane diagonal to the lateral and longitudinal axes of said sections, a device for adjustably connecting said sections H I adjacent to said arms-eye portion, the section H having a scale D extending substantially parallel with the adj acent edges of said sections, as specified.

2. In a chart for outlining garment-sections, the combination of the upper section H, hav ing the series of punctures A, B, O, and D, numbered as described, togcther with a section I, pivoted to section H at its front and adjustable at its rear, as described, and provided with a series of punctures J, numbered as described, said sections H I being conjointly cut away to present an arms-eye portion adjustable proportionately with the adj ustment effected in connection with the series D of punctures, substantially as set forth.

3. In a chart for outlining garment-sections, the combination of the sections H and I, pivotally connected at their front and conjointly cut away at their rear to form a variable arms-eye portion, the section H being provided with punctured scales A, B, O, and D, and the section I with punctured scales E and J, all numbered as described, and a vertical front scale on both sections, together with an adjusting device connecting both sections H I adjacent to said arms-eye portion, substantially as set forth.

4:. The chart for drafting garment-sleeves, having the several series of punctured scales IIO K L M, each provided with a double overlapping series of vertical numerals, the scale K, also having a horizontal series, outwardlyranging scales on the inside edge of the chart, and a line A on the chart parallel with said inside edge and having punctured scales corresponding with the scales of the inside edge of the chart, substantially as set forth.

5. The chart fordr'afting garment-sleeves, having the several series of punctured scales K L M, each provided with a double series of overlapping vertical numerals, the scale K also having a horizontal series, outwardlyranging scales on the inside edge of the chart, a line A on the chart parallel with said inside edge, and having punctured scales corresponding with the scales of the inside edge of the chart, together with an arms-eye portion having an edge scale and star, substantially as set forth.

6. The chart for outlining garment-sleeves,

having the several series of punctures KL JACOB s. BATTGHMAN: MELVINA EJBAUGHMAN.

lVitnesses:

A. M. ANTROBUS, J. H. SCOTT. 

